Traveling to Bhutan is not for the faint-hearted. The upfront cost-a Sustainable Development Fee of USD100 per day, per person, cuts deep into the budget, and the journey from Manila must be timed properly-with very limited flights from Bangkok or Singapore.
The flight to Paro in Bhutan is one of the most dangerous approaches in the world. Only 50 pilots are specially trained to fly this high-altitude valley in the Himalayas, surrounded by mountains as high as 18,000 feet. These pilots do not use navigation computers or automated route settings. All the flying is done manually.
But that dangerous flight to Bhutan has some of the most dramatic airplane window seat views in the world. And it is worth visiting the last great Himalayan kingdom, still deeply steeped in Buddhist culture, while embracing modernization and setting a milestone in the global climate change challenge.
Dubbed as the Land of the Thunder Dragon, Bhutan is the first (and only) carbon-negative country in the world. Its forests are protected under its Constitution, and its progress is not measured by economic wealth, but by Gross National Happiness, integrating Buddhist tradition with sustainable development, cultural preservation, and well-being.
Under the military protection of India, Bhutan recently forged diplomatic ties with the Philippines-indicating closer ties between the two countries.
How long to stay in Bhutan?
Most people stay at least five to seven days in Bhutan. That’s enough to take in the sights and savor slow, relaxed experiences in the happiest nation in the world. There are no malls, no theme parks, or mass tourism attractions. While tourism is among Bhutan’s economic drivers, the country makes an effort to ensure that its culture and way of life is preserved-basically, tourists adjust to everything Bhutanese.
Tourists can DIY travel in Bhutan. But beyond Paro and Thimpu, foreigners are not allowed to roam around without a local guide-so it’s still better to book with a licensed tour operator who will then handle visa, fees, flights, and all other arrangements.
7-day travel curated by Bhutan trip-with co-owner Sangay Khandu making sure I got the best possible deals within my budget. For those who prefer connecting with someone in the Philippines, former journalist Abner Mercado launched Adventure Dreamer Travel and Tours, and he curates tours to Bhutan and Nepal.
Bhutan’s gateway: Paro
Nestled high in the Himalayas, the air is thinner and less oxygenated in Bhutan, and it might cause lightheadedness. Hence, it’s always recommended to take it slow and easy, with some opting to spend the day around Paro to get acclimatized.
From the airport, roads are flanked by mountain ridges lined with prayer flags that unfurl against cool, crisp, and clean air. From the airport, it’s a quick pit stop to the Tachogang Lhakhang, a private monastery built in the 15th century, known for its suspension bridge that frames a scenic rushing river landscape. The monastery is a well-preserved example of traditional Bhutanese architecture. Entry into the temple has to be pre-arranged, but just crossing the suspension bridge and wandering the grounds is enough of a teaser for the rest of the trip.
In Paro city proper, the streets are lined with shops and eateries in wooden structures that seem like a step back in time. There are no tall buildings, and no crowds rushing about. It’s a city with no vestiges of rapid urbanism. It’s such a treat to roam the streets and observe locals and take in how slow life is.
The Paro Rinpung Dzong is a fortress-monastery built in the 17th century. It’s living history with locals crossing a river via a wooden bridge to reach the monastery in the same way as people would have done centuries ago. The monastery walls are hand-carved and painted in bright colors, and the site is still used to this day for prayer and worship.
Time-permitting, Ta Dzong, or the National Museum of Bhutan, has thousands of Bhutanese art and artifacts on display-a visual narration of the kingdom’s history. On the other hand, Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the oldest and most sacred temples in Bhutan, built in the 7th century, with an inner courtyard dotted with orange trees said to bear fruit year-round.
Thimpu: the kingdom’s capital
Thimpu is Bhutan’s urban hub-but there are hardly any bright neon lights, no traffic lights, no cacophony of noises. In fact, the only intersection in the entire city is manned during the day by a traffic officer, directing vehicles in an almost graceful dance of hand gestures. Just like Paro, it’s refreshing to walk around the city and shop for handicrafts and local products like lemongrass oil, singing bowls, or shawls.
Tracing its roots to the 13th century, Thimpu was a small farming valley that eventually prospered from trading with India and Tibet. It’s Bhutan’s political and economic center, as well as the monarchy’s seat of power-representing modernization while keeping with tradition and harmonious living.
Perched on a cliff overlooking Thimpu Valley, Buddha Dordenma is one of the largest sitting statues of Buddha in the world. Built in bronze and gilded gold, the statue was built to bestow blessings, peace, and happiness on the whole world. Surrounding the giant statue are carved figures from Buddhist mythology. Under the Buddha’s seat is a large worship room with 100,000 golden Buddha statues. The room is majestic, yet serene, with devotees offering prayers and setting intentions.
Traditional arts and crafts are preserved-with a steady stream of knowledge transfer through training institutes that hone the artistic skills of the youth. The National Institute for Zorig Chusum, established by the government in 1971, aims to pass on the 13 crafts and art forms-painting, sculpting, wood carving, calligraphy, paper making, bronze casting, embroidery, weaving, carpentry, masonry, bamboo and cane weaving, gold and silver smithing, and black smithy, to younger generations.
The National Memorial Chorten was built in memory of the third King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, whose dying wish was to build a place where people could introspect, reflect, and pray. Inside the complex, locals turn prayer wheels and walk around the stupa in prayer. While yoga is not a common practice in Bhutan, elderly locals practice a form of sun salutations as part of their prayers.
Built in the 12th century, Changangkha Lhakhang holds a special place for Bhutanese families who come to seek blessings for their children. Newborns are brought here for the naming ceremony and to receive protective blessings from the resident monks. On top of its religious and historical significance, the temple is also an architectural marvel, surrounded by prayer wheels and stone walls hand-carved with sacred texts.
The Dechen Phodrang Monastery is set on a mountain at the outskirts of Thimpu. It’s an active monastery with hundreds of students learning in halls adorned with 12th-century murals and stunning architecture. This is also one place where you can literally wake up and smell the roses with blooms in a variety of colors growing in the area.
And this is just Paro and Thimpu. There’s much more about the last Shangri-La in my next installment.