Filipino comfort food often draws its appeal from familiarity. At Rekdi in Poblacion, Makati, those well-loved flavors remain at the heart of the menu, but they are reworked using live-fire cooking and unexpected pairings that bring new dimensions to classic dishes.
That balance between tradition and reinvention is reflected in the restaurant itself.
My two friends and I took our seats on Rekdi’s third floor, where the izakaya-style dining room is built around an open grill. Throughout the evening, the chef worked over glowing coals within view of the diners, making the preparation as much a part of the experience as the food itself.
The aroma of charcoal and meat slowly caramelizing over the grill lingered in the dining room. It mingled with the hum of conversation and a mellow playlist, setting the tone for an evening centered on Filipino comfort food with subtle yet thoughtful reinterpretations.
Modern karinderya
REKDI is filmmaker Erik Matti’s take on the modern karinderya. The restaurant’s name is a play on ‘direk,’ the Filipino nickname for a director, spelled backward. Opened in February this year, the three-story restaurant houses a bar on the ground floor, a dining area on the second, and the open grilling kitchen on the third floor.
The menu follows the same philosophy.
Grilled dishes take center stage, built on butter, chicken oil, lard, and tallow instead of olive oil. Paired with rice, noodles, or bread, they are designed for sharing, encouraging diners to order across the menu and build the meal together.
We started with the Rekdi BBQ, the restaurant’s signature dish.
Two hefty skewers of pork and beef belly arrived with lightly charred edges, glazed in a sweet-and-savory barbecue sauce. The meat was tender, carrying just enough smokiness from the grill without overpowering its richness.
THE accompaniments gave the dish its distinct character. An anchovy, mushroom, and caper crumble added bursts of saltiness and earthy umami, while the kansi onion broth underneath brought a gentle tang that reminded me of my mom’s sinigang. Torched fontal cheese tied everything together with a creamy finish.
The dish stayed true to the essence of Filipino barbecue, yet each component subtly reshaped what I expected from a classic skewer.
Lighter contrast
NEXT came the Honey Ginger Miso Blue Marlin, which offered a lighter contrast to the richness of the barbecue.
The fish remained moist beneath a glaze in which honey softened the fermented depth of the miso, while ginger added warmth without taking over the dish. Rather than masking the blue marlin, the glaze complemented its clean, meaty flavor.
A crisp carrot, squash, and kamote rosti okoy accompanied the fish, resting over a curried carrot-squash purée. The gentle sweetness of the vegetables balanced the savory notes of the fish.
We paired both mains with the Butter Fried Rice.
Savory richness
COOKED generously in butter and topped with salted fish, mushrooms, and crumbled uga, the fried rice carried the kind of savory richness that made it satisfying even on its own. The mushrooms contributed earthy notes, while the salted fish and dried uga added bursts of salinity and crunch. More than a side dish, it connected the smoky barbecue and the blue marlin, absorbing their sauces and bringing the meal together.
The same balance of nostalgia and experimentation carried into dessert.
The Grilled Brown Butter Cake was warmed over charcoal before being served with a kesong puti cream sauce and batwan-raspberry jam. The slight smokiness complemented the nutty flavor of the browned butter, while the tartness of the jam kept the dessert from becoming overly rich.
But the Rekdissert lingered with me the longest.
Made with toasted mung beans using the French riz au lait technique, the dessert immediately reminded me of champorado because of its bittersweet chocolate mousse.
BUT after a few spoonfuls, another memory surfaced. It brought to mind my grandmother’s comforting ginataang monggo-not because it tasted exactly the same, but because the toasted mung beans carried the same warmth I associated with childhood meals. The candied dilis crisp sounded unconventional on paper, yet its sweet-and-salty crunch added another layer of texture that unexpectedly worked.
To end the evening, we shared the Coconut Ice Cream, served with pineapple, lemongrass and ginger compote, coconut macaroon, torched Swiss meringue, and Parmesan crumble. Light and refreshing, it provided a welcome contrast after dishes shaped by smoke, butter, and deep umami.
What stayed with me, however, was not just the food but the way Rekdi approached it. The open grill is more than a visual centerpiece; it shapes the flavor of nearly every dish that leaves the kitchen. Smoke is present throughout the menu, but never to the point of masking the ingredients. Instead, it quietly ties together Filipino classics while introducing thoughtful, sometimes unexpected, elements.
As my friends and I made our way downstairs, the faint scent of charcoal lingered on our clothes. It felt like a fitting reminder of the evening. Rekdi doesn’t reinvent Filipino comfort food as much as it invites diners to see it from a different perspective.
Through careful grilling, thoughtful pairings, and a clear respect for tradition, the evening became less about discovering something entirely new than seeing well-loved Filipino dishes in a new light.
Rekdi is located at 5713 Pagulayan, Poblacion, Makati City, 1210 Metro Manila. Opens Tues to Sun: 6PM – 1AM (Closed Mondays). For events and reservations, DM their Instagram page.