Walk through any mall in Nairobi, and you will catch it before you see it: a wave of familiar designer scents trailing behind shoppers who paid a fraction of the real price.
The counterfeit perfume trade has grown so sophisticated that even seasoned buyers struggle to tell a fake Tommy Hilfiger or Gucci bottle from the original.
As the counterfeit luxury market grows, a shift toward niche fragrances is becoming increasingly visible, with distributors and sellers reporting a growing appetite for little-known brands.
Kenyan consumers are willing to spend twice what they would normally budget for perfume, even when the name on the bottle is unfamiliar.
“Three or four years ago, the uptake of niche fragrance by Kenyans was quite slow because of the price point, but also because these aren’t brands known by many. Right now, there is this sudden acceptability and recognition of niche house fragrance among Kenyans,” says David Oremo, General Manager at Maven Luxury, a distributor of luxury fragrances in East Africa.
According to the Anti-Counterfeit Authority (ACA), footwear, apparel and fragrances, particularly luxury brands, remain among the most heavily counterfeited products in the Kenyan market.
Sh87 million counterfeits
In a crackdown by the agency in April this year, counterfeit shoes, clothing and fragrances were seized, with the fake items valued at Sh87 million out of a Sh201 million haul of counterfeit goods. Most of the seized products bore the marks of mass market brands such as Nike, Puma, Adidas, Gucci and Tommy Hilfiger.
“What we are seeing is a market driven by aspiration. People want to belong to a certain social class. When they cannot afford an international luxury brand, counterfeit steps in to fill the gap,” ACA Executive General Robi Kinga told the BDLife.
But in fragrance, the equation is changing. Mr Oremo attributes the shift partly to increased travel, social media and exposure to global fragrance trends.
“Fragrance is very personal. It has to smell right to you. Kenyans are becoming sophisticated by the day and are no longer interested in how big a brand name is, but in the quality, performance and distinctiveness of the fragrance.”
He also agrees the rise of counterfeits is another reason the niche business is booming.
“With the dupes flooding the market, especially of popular mass market luxury labels, we are seeing a surge in the uptake of niche house fragrances because very few of them are being counterfeited.”
Because niche fragrances are not popular, counterfeiters are hesitant to invest in creating dupes, since there is no ready market for them. Even then, creating a fake niche fragrance would be costly compared to a mass market one because of the complexity that goes into making them,” he adds.
Unlike apparel and footwear, Mr Oremo notes that consumers are less concerned about displaying a recognisable label and more interested in a scent that feels uniquely theirs.
“Many Kenyans don’t want to smell the same, even if they would not mind wearing clothes from the same brand for social status,” he says.
“Popular designer brands have easily become a target for counterfeiters because they are mass-produced alongside other products. You can see a Hugo Boss shirt and a Hugo Boss fragrance. Niche does not work like that. Brands that do niche specialise only in fragrance, which makes the engineering far more detailed. That is why they have an edge when it comes to offering distinct scents that leave a lasting impression and deliver longer performance.”
Niche houses also tend not to rely on mass marketing. Instead, many build their brands around communities of loyal consumers and word of mouth, an approach giving them an unexpected advantage in Kenya.
“With the fakes in the market being generally low quality, we are seeing more Kenyans willing to spend twice what they used to on a niche fragrance they like”
The best-sellers
Mr Oremo notes that a bottle of niche fragrance starting from Sh28,000, the entry price point for most niche brands, can typically deliver seven hours or more of longevity.
“You wear it while leaving the house, and you don’t need to carry it around and rush to the bathroom to reapply by midday,” he says.
According to Peter Gitau, Brand Lead at Cierra Perfumes luxury stores, Parfums de Marly (French), Montale Mancera (French), Xerjoff (Italian), Nishane (Turkish), Roja (English) and Initio (French) are the best-selling niche house fragrances among Kenyans.
“These are the top-of-mind niche fragrances that many Kenyan shoppers keep asking about,” he notes.
Mr Gitau agrees the Kenyan market is now more open to trying something different but says theire is a knock-off effect.
“While counterfeits have had an impact, the bigger driver I see is the sharp rise in the prices of designer fragrances. When a designer perfume starts costing almost as much as a niche one, consumers begin to question the value they are getting. At that point, someone may choose to pivot to niche because it offers more artistic expression.”
And Mr Oremo says this shift is already catching the attention of foreign niche houses keen to enter the Kenyan market. “What does that tell you? It tells you the market is there. People are willing to spend money for good scents,” he says.
Niche brands enter market
Last week, Australian niche fragrance brand Goldfield and Banks launched in Kenya. According to Nicolas Picard, the challenge was never simply finding consumers willing to pay a premium, but finding a retail environment capable of delivering the quality and brand experience expected of a luxury fragrance house.
“We need a certain level of quality and execution for the brand to actually represent that luxury segment we’re in. Therefore, we had to find the right partners,” he told the BDLife.
The brand has been in Kenya for five months, spent studying the market. “We took notice of Kenya’s growing fragrance culture. Kenya has a strong and increasingly youthful niche fragrance following, supported by consumers who are well travelled, active on social media and exposed to international trends. The clientele we’re getting is becoming younger and younger.”
Mr Picard adds that Kenyan consumers tend to like a strong scent, something that fits Goldfield and Banks’ identity. “Kenya has a very bold population. They like strong, loud fragrances that make them stand apart. They also don’t like smelling like the next person.”
The brand is launching with 10 fragrances, including its worldwide bestseller Ingenious Ginger, along with Silky Woods, Sunset Hour and Pacific Rock Moss. 100ml bottles retail at $220 (Sh29,000), while selected 50ml bottles cost between $150 (Sh19,000) and $160 (Sh21,000). Picard says the company is targeting a turnover of Sh90 million from Kenya within its first three years.