Back in 2008, while still in college, Kert-Jan M. Tabaña was just another coffee drinker. He enjoyed the beverage but never gave much thought to its flavor complexities or the industry behind it.
‘I was a typical coffee shop consumer,’ he recalled, admitting he had little understanding of coffee beyond its caffeine kick.
That changed in 2017 during a visit to a café in Liloan, Cebu. He ordered an Americano and what he tasted surprised him. Notes of citrus, reminiscent of orange and lemon, danced on his palate.
‘It felt like a landslide,’ he said, describing the moment as a revelation that sparked his deep curiosity about coffee.
Despite holding a degree in Information Technology, Kert dove headfirst into the world of coffee. His love for learning and willingness to take risks fueled his journey. From 2017 to 2024, he worked in the BPO industry while juggling part-time roles in various coffee shops across Cebu.
‘Coffee kept me awake, but more than that, it kept me motivated,’ he shared. ‘It became the fuel that powered my nights and inspired innovation.’
During those years, Kert immersed himself in research and development, networking, teaching and collaborating with stakeholders in Cebu’s coffee scene. He now considers himself one of the region’s few specialty coffee educators.
‘I sleep well knowing I’ve done something productive for coffee,’ Kert said.
Among the cafés that shaped his learning, Dirty Puma Coffee Co. and The Good Cup Coffee Co. stand out. In 2019, Kert began exploring water chemistry in the coffee brewing process. He developed a mineral concentrate called Calibrate in collaboration with The Good Cup, aiming to improve the quality of manual brews for Cebu’s growing community of home brewers.
‘There was no readily available information at the time,’ he explained. ‘But I managed to partially solve the water issue.’
Realizing the need for a scientific approach in Cebu’s coffee community, Kert pushed forward. His locally produced water minerals helped elevate the specialty coffee scene and supported cafés in refining their products.
He continues to work with chemists to improve the formula. ‘It’s not perfect-but it’s a start,’ he said. In 2020, Calibrate was officially launched.
‘Every day is an opportunity to learn,’ he added, noting that he constantly reads and studies to expand his knowledge.
Despite his passion, not everyone was convinced. ‘One of the biggest challenges was being ignored. People didn’t listen until I proved myself,’ he said.
Kert did not back down. He conducted research, gave talks and joined competitions. His breakthrough came in 2023 when he placed fourth in the Philippine National Brewers Cup. The recognition validated his work and gave visibility to Cebu’s coffee community.
‘I knew I was on the right path,’ he said. ‘I started teaching brewing classes and sharing water science. Water is just as important as coffee.’
In 2023, Kert decided to venture into entrepreneurship by opening Tonic Hilongos in Leyte. A year later, on Oct. 5, 2024, he launched RISK Coffee Roastery-without large capital and with limited access to green coffee beans. True to its name, the roastery was born out of risk-taking, driven by his vision to support local farmers and elevate the Philippine coffee experience.
‘We sacrificed to practice roasting. We explored beyond industry norms. If we hadn’t tried, we wouldn’t have learned,’ he said.
Kert observed that many Cebu coffee enthusiasts favored imported beans, often overlooking local ones. He believes Philippine coffee deserves better representation and that roasters must improve their techniques to highlight its potential.
‘Philippine coffee has always been good. You just need to understand it deeply to brew it well,’ Kert said.
Opening Risk Roastery was a response to high expectations. Kert rose to the challenge, crediting Adrian Enriquez for teaching him the fundamentals of roasting. He continues to supplement his knowledge through reading and research.
Kert admits he had no formal education in coffee, no connections and no funding-only time and determination. He taught himself, took bold risks and committed to educating others.
‘In this industry, complacency is dangerous. Thinking you’re ahead means you’re already behind,’ he said.
He holds close a quote from coffee scientist Christopher Hendon: ‘What you know now is three to five years behind the industry.’ For Kert, it is a reminder to keep innovating.
‘I push myself and put my work out there. People may question it, but I prove that what we’re doing is right.’
Looking ahead, Kert aims to work with farmers to introduce non-invasive methods, improve production and better understand farm dynamics.
‘We need to see our coffee farms more clearly. We must engage with farmers, understand their struggles and support them,’ he said.
To Kert, specialty coffee is a double-edged sword. While it celebrates quality, it can sometimes overlook the labor behind it. True sustainability means ensuring farmers benefit from their hard work.
‘Many don’t realize how vital our farms are. What about those farmers who aren’t in the spotlight?’ he asked.
‘At Risk, we roast the best interpretation of each bean. We want to showcase the farmers’ work in its finest form. That’s how we help them shine.’
Kert envisions a Philippine coffee community filled with curious, conscious individuals.
‘Our goal is to raise awareness. We teach, we brew and we challenge norms. Learning never stops,’ he said.
‘Taste the coffee. Ask questions. Stay curious.’