Hot flushes, weight gain and vaginal dryness are among the most common signs of menopause. But the changes do not stop there. The skin also undergoes noticeable changes, including wrinkling, thinning, dryness, acne flare-ups, and hyperpigmentation.
Oestrogen plays a major role in maintaining healthy and youthful skin, says Dr Gacheri Kathiri, a dermatologist based at Meru Teaching and Referral Hospital.
“During menopause, falling oestrogen levels contribute to reduced collagen and elasticity. The skin becomes thinner and drier, making signs of ageing more visible, such as wrinkles and changes in texture,” she says.
Some skincare companies have introduced face creams and serums marketed as ‘oestrogen-infused’, sold without prescription and promoted as solutions for reversing or preventing ageing.
However, skin ageing is not caused by hormones alone. “Genetics, ultraviolet (UV) exposure, smoking, nutrition, stress, pollution and chronic illness also contribute significantly,” she says.
However, Dr Kathiri cautions that no cream can completely reverse skin ageing. “Ageing is a biological process involving structural changes in collagen, elastin, fat, muscle, and bone.”
“What topical creams can realistically do is improve hydration, pigmentation, texture, and fine lines by stimulating some collagen production.”
The evidence-backed creams
She says that the most evidence-based topical anti-ageing ingredients remain sunscreen, retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide and moisturisers containing ceramides.
Dr Kathiri also notes that many cosmetic ‘oestrogen-infused’ products marketed online may contain very low amounts of plant-derived compounds or unclear ingredients with minimal proven benefit, especially because the industry is highly unregulated.
‘These creams cannot improve deep wrinkles, sagging skin or loss of facial volume,’ she explains.
Advanced photoageing, like sagging, largely results from deeper structural changes beneath the skin, including fat and ligament changes, which creams cannot fully correct.
“Individuals should be cautious of exaggerated marketing claims promising ‘many years younger’ results.”She says the best approach for very advanced ageing signs is invasive procedures, from simple procedures like microneedling to fully surgical interventions.
“Prescription hormonal creams (by certified doctors or clinicians) contain regulated forms of oestrogen such as oestradiol and are prescribed for medical indications. They undergo stricter quality control and medical supervision,” she emphasises.
Cosmetic ‘phytoestrogen’ products could contain plant-derived compounds. However, she says there’s weaker scientific evidence and inconsistent outcomes on their effects on skin. “They are often safer than true hormonal products, but regulation in cosmetics may vary, with some products having unsupported claims.”
Signs of adverse reaction
She advises women to be careful with unregulated imported skincare products sold online or in informal beauty markets.
Some warning signs of reaction to hormone-infused skincare may include redness, burning, itching, swelling, rash or acne flare-ups. In some cases, users may also experience hyperpigmentation, breast tenderness or unexpected vaginal bleeding.
“Long-term concerns depend on the level of systemic absorption and may include hormonal imbalance, stimulation of hormone-sensitive tissues, possible increased risk in people predisposed to breast or endometrial cancers, worsening of melasma, and interference with fertility,” says Dr Gacheri.
“Topical oestrogen is mainly used medically for conditions such as vulvovaginal atrophy and genitourinary syndrome of menopause. In such cases, it is prescribed as vaginal creams, tablets or rings, and systemic absorption is usually very low to negligible.”
Facial hormonal creams, however, are not routinely recommended as first-line anti-ageing treatments in standard dermatology practice. If used, they should be under medical supervision.
Products you should avoid
Additionally, she cautions that these products should generally be avoided or used only under specialist guidance in people with breast cancer or such history, endometrial cancer, oestrogen-sensitive tumours, unexplained vaginal bleeding, liver disease, history of blood clots or stroke, or pregnancy.
Also, certain migraine disorders with vascular risk occur in children, adolescents and most younger adults.
Despite the growing number of skincare products in the market, Dr Gacheri stresses that sunscreen remains the most effective and scientifically supported anti-ageing product.
“While melanin offers some natural protection against skin cancer, sunscreen is still essential for reducing visible signs of ageing such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. It is also important for people with photosensitive conditions such as lupus, melasma, photodermatitis and albinism,” she says.
She recommends a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, applied every day, even on cloudy days. “For proper application, the face and neck require about two finger-lengths of sunscreen. It should be applied 15 to 20 minutes before sun exposure and reapplied at least every three hours when outdoors for long periods.”