Where Fire Met Sea
There are places on Earth where time stands still – where water becomes the keeper of stories and the sea hums with memory. Off the coast of Catarman, Camiguin, lies one such site – the Sunken Cemetery, marked by a towering white cross that rises solemnly from the ocean. Beneath it rests an entire town swallowed by the sea.
As a seasoned diver, mermaid instructor, and travel journalist, I’ve explored countless coral walls and shipwrecks across Southeast Asia. But the first time I descended into Camiguin’s fabled depths, I knew this wouldn’t be just another dive – it would be a communion with history.
The Isle Born of Fire
Camiguin’s story is one of fire, faith, and rebirth. Known as the ‘Isle Born of Fire,’ this small emerald gem in Northern Mindanao was forged by seven volcanoes, each shaping the island’s fate through centuries of eruptions.
The most cataclysmic event came in 1871, when Mount Vulcan violently erupted, burying the old town of Catarman under ash and lava. Homes vanished, the church crumbled, and the town cemetery sank as the earth gave way to the sea.
Today, a giant cross marks the resting place of generations – a poignant symbol of loss and renewal. Standing there before my dive, watching the sun cast its glow over the marker, I couldn’t help but feel the pulse of both tragedy and transcendence.
Descent into Memory
We entered the water just as the midday sun shimmered over the Bohol Sea. The surface was calm, glassy – a mirror to the mountains that once roared fire. I adjusted my mask, checked my air, and began my descent into silence.
The slope beneath the cross revealed a world of quiet transformation. Coral heads, sponges, and anemones had claimed what was once sacred ground. Fish darted between coral-encrusted stones – sergeant majors, butterflyfish, parrotfish, and angelfish turning the once-somber landscape into a vivid mosaic of life.
A blue-spotted stingray drifted across the sand, while a lionfish hovered like a ghost near an old coral mound. Peeking through crevices, I found moray eels and a playful pufferfish, reminders that nature never truly surrenders – it simply adapts.
At around 20 feet, my dive light brushed what locals believe are remnants of the old gravestones. Coral had softened their edges, sea fans wrapped them in living lace. It wasn’t eerie – it was peaceful, as though the ocean had become a cathedral.
‘I didn’t just dive into the sea – I dove into Camiguin’s soul.’
Surfacing, I traded my scuba tank for my mermaid tail – a shimmering turquoise fin that flowed like light through water. Free-diving above the cross, I felt suspended between worlds. Down below lay a story of death and rebirth; above, the sun – radiant and forgiving.
Legends Born of Fire
Camiguin’s origin stories are as dramatic as its landscape. One legend speaks of Magbangal, a demigod farmer who angered the spirits by tilling forbidden land. In wrath, the earth erupted, engulfing his fields – giving birth to the island itself.
Another myth claims that Camiguin was once part of mainland Mindanao, until a jealous sea spirit tore it away, surrounding it with fire and waves.
Whether divine punishment or natural wonder, these tales mirror what science tells us – that this island was born from volcanic upheaval, and that life here has always been shaped by the dance between destruction and renewal.
Life Among the Tombs
The Sunken Cemetery today is one of the most accessible dive sites in Camiguin, welcoming both divers and snorkelers. The upper reef, only 5-10 meters deep, bursts with color – perfect for those who prefer to stay near the surface.
Marine life thrives here: clownfish, wrasses, nudibranchs, pipefish, batfish, and juvenile barracudas weave through coral gardens that have made this sacred ground a sanctuary. Occasionally, hawksbill turtles glide through, and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot reef squid or garden eels peeking from their sandy burrows.
The reef’s transformation from cemetery to living memorial is what makes it magical. It’s a reminder that even in loss, nature finds a way to bloom again.
Top 10 Dive Spots in Camiguin
Sunken Cemetery / Old Volcano Site – Coral gardens and history intertwine.
Burias Shoal – Strong currents, massive coral heads, and pelagic visitors.
Mantigue Island Sanctuary – Protected reef teeming with turtles and reef sharks.
White Island Reef – Colorful, shallow dive with postcard-perfect visibility.
Katibawasan Drift – Fast-paced dive for the adventurous, with schooling jacks.
Tangub Hot Spring Reef – A rare blend of warm volcanic and cool ocean currents.
Black Forest (Hibok-Hibok) – Volcanic sands rich in soft corals and sponges.
Jigdup Reef – A macro lover’s dream: frogfish, nudibranchs, and leaf scorpionfish.
Old Catarman Church Wreck – Coral-covered ruins with mysterious silhouettes.
Tuasan Reef – Gentle slopes and vibrant coral gardens, ideal for beginners.
Every dive here feels personal – as though the sea itself is inviting you to rediscover its ever-changing beauty.
Getting to Camiguin
Reaching Camiguin is part of the adventure. The island is accessible by air, sea, and a combination of land and ferry routes:
Cebu Pacific operates direct flights from Cebu to Camiguin Airport (CGM), taking just about 50 minutes. From the airport in Mambajao, resorts and dive centers are 15-20 minutes away by tricycle or van.
From Balingoan Port in Misamis Oriental, you can take a RoRo ferry to Benoni Port, Camiguin’s main entry point. The trip takes 1 hour, and ferries run several times daily.
Take a 2.5-hour drive from Cagayan de Oro City to Balingoan Port, then board the ferry to Camiguin. Alternatively, travelers from Butuan can reach Balingoan in about 3.5 hours.
Once on the island, you can rent a motorbike, van, or tricycle to explore the volcanoes, waterfalls, and coastal roads – each corner revealing a new shade of paradise.
Mermaid’s Notes: Travel Tips for Diving Camiguin
The best time to visit is March to June, when seas are calm and visibility can reach up to 30 meters. Bring both scuba and freediving gear, as sites range from shallow reefs to deeper volcanic slopes.
Always dive with a local guide, since currents can shift near Mount Vulcan’s base. The best access points are Mambajao or Catarman, where dive operators offer boat or shore entries.
After your dive, soak in Ardent Hot Springs or watch the sunset from White Island Sandbar, with Mount Hibok-Hibok glowing behind you. And remember: take nothing but photos, leave nothing but bubbles – especially when diving on sacred ground.