Back when I was working in Manila’s San Miguel district, I would often pass by Quiapo Muslim Town but never stopped to explore it. Like many people, I had allowed stereotypes and stories to shape my perception of the community.
One experience was enough to change that.
Just before the pandemic, I joined a cultural immersion in the neighborhood, and it left such an impression that I found myself returning to Quiapo Muslim Town several times with friends, mostly to enjoy the food again.
So when I was invited back, this time by the Philippine Tour Operators Association (PHILTOA) as part of its LakBayanihan Manila Series, I happily accepted. After all, who turns down the chance to eat their way through Quiapo?
The program showcases experiences that tour operators can eventually offer their clients while promoting Muslim-friendly tourism.
We began at Quezon Boulevard, the dividing line between two of Quiapo’s most recognizable communities.
On one side of Quezon Boulevard stands the Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Jesus Nazareno, home of the Black Nazarene and the site of the Traslación, one of the largest Catholic religious gatherings in the world. Around the church, a bustling mix of eateries, religious shops, herbal medicine stores, amulet vendors, market stalls, and street vendors has long welcomed pilgrims and shoppers.
On the other side of Quezon Boulevard, a short walk leads to the Golden Mosque and Cultural Center, the largest mosque in Metro Manila. Surrounding it is a vibrant community of halal eateries, spice shops, textile stores, and businesses selling traditional Islamic clothing and goods.
From Quezon Boulevard, we walked to Elizondo Street to go to Wakilah, one of the best-known halal restaurants in Quiapo Muslim Town.
Over breakfast of roti banana, roti cheese, roti telur served with curry dip, Wakilah’s signature Giant Roti Tissue Tower, and hot teh tarik, organizers talked about the community’s history, culture, and traditions.
It was led by researcher and broadcast journalist Nords Maguindanao together with Ann Marie Cunanan, founder of Meaningful Travels PH. It was nice seeing them again, as they were also my guides during my first visit before the pandemic. We also met Imam Mohammad Alawi, who shared insights into the local Muslim community and Islamic practices.
Before leaving Wakilah, we watched one of the restaurant’s biggest attractions. Chef Gey stretched, spun, and flipped paper-thin dough with graceful, dance-like movements. It’s easy to see why his performance has become a favorite on social media.
Our next stop offered a glimpse into Muslim culture through traditional clothing and everyday customs. They showed us items commonly used by Muslim women, including oil-based perfumes, henna, miswak, a natural toothbrush, and bakhoor, a fragrant incense used to perfume clothing and homes.
The highlight, however, was getting to wear a hijab. I chose a blue one to add a splash of color to my black skirt and the brown shirt provided by the Department of Tourism NCR. We also learned about the importance of modest clothing and proper etiquette when entering places of worship.
Then we made our way to the Golden Mosque, officially known as Masjid Al-Dahab, built in 1976. It is a symbol of the country’s Muslim heritage. Although time has left its mark, its soaring golden dome still commands attention and makes it easy to imagine the landmark in its former glory.
Inside the mosque, Nords explained the Five Pillars of Islam, helping us better understand the beliefs and practices followed by Muslims around the world.
We were supposed to visit a nearby madrasa, or Islamic school, but the children came to meet us instead. PHILTOA had prepared small gifts for them, and what followed was one of the most heartwarming moments of the day, filled with smiles and laughter.
Our walk continued to the neighborhood padian, the traditional community market. Here, Nords showed us the sakurab, a native wild leek that gives the famous Maranao condiment palapa its distinctive flavor. We also sampled dodol, a rich, sticky delicacy made from glutinous rice and coconut milk.
Then came the part I had been looking forward to the most-lunch.
We headed to Arab Asian Little Resto, where we were treated to a sample of a traditional Pagana Maranao, the highest expression of Maranao hospitality. The feast featured a generous spread of Maranao and Tausug dishes.
Joining us was former Department of Tourism Undersecretary Myra Paz Valderrosa-Abubakar, one of the key figures behind the country’s Muslim-friendly tourism program. Before lunch, she spoke about the importance of Muslim-friendly tourism and the country’s efforts to become a more welcoming destination for Muslim travelers. Her leadership helped the Philippines rank among the Top 5 Muslim-Friendly Destinations among non-OIC (Organization of Islamic Cooperation) countries in the Global Muslim Travel Index.
Lunch reminded me why I kept coming back to Quiapo Muslim Town after my first visit in 2020. The food was as memorable as I remembered, and the warmth of the community and the stories behind every dish made the experience even more meaningful.
And after a morning of walking around the neighborhood, enjoying the feast in the comfort of an air-conditioned restaurant certainly didn’t hurt.