SLOW-PACED CHARM | Exploring Puerto Princesa beyond the usual tourist trail

In the early 2000s, Puerto Princesa was already drawing both domestic and foreign tourists to Palawan, its islands and natural attractions making it one of the country’s familiar names in tourism.

Today, however, it faces a much more crowded field. Siargao in Surigao del Norte has become a draw for surfers and travelers looking for a laid-back island escape. Siquijor has built its own appeal around its beaches and natural attractions, while La Union has grown into a popular weekend destination, with cafes, restaurants, and other establishments catering to a steady stream of visitors.

The competition comes at a time when traveling has also become more expensive. Rising airfares, alongside broader uncertainties brought about by geopolitical tensions in the Middle East and their effects on fuel prices, can make travelers think twice about where to spend their next vacation.

So what makes Puerto Princesa worth visiting? For me, part of its appeal lies in its simplicity.

Unlike destinations where an itinerary can quickly fill up with tours, restaurant reservations, and stops at popular establishments, Puerto Princesa seems to leave more room for spontaneity.

The experience can feel less structured. There is room to decide where to go next, how long to stay, and when to simply stop and take in the surroundings.

I got a feel for this during my stay in Sabang last month, where I spent a few days at Four Points by Sheraton Palawan.

The resort sits along Sabang Beach, a quieter stretch of coastline in the northwestern part of the province.

Its location also makes it a convenient base for exploring the area’s natural attractions, with the UNESCO-listed Puerto Princesa Underground River and Sabang Mangrove Forest among the nearby stops.

Visitors can also go on guided hikes, explore Sabang Hundred Caves, or try the activities at Ugong Rock Adventures. Those willing to venture farther can visit Sabang Waterfalls and Isla Rita.

We made our way to the latter during one of our excursions. Nearly 40 minutes from the resort, Isla Rita felt far removed from the more developed tourist destinations.

There were no rows of shops or restaurants, just a stretch of beach, clear waters, and dogs swimming along the shore.

Our guide, Ate Nellen, shared that her last tour on the island had been two months earlier. Tourism had been slow, she said, with fewer visitors coming through the area.

For local guides like her, that can mean weeks or even months without an opportunity to earn from showing visitors around their home.

It was difficult not to think about this while taking in the island’s scenery. Isla Rita has the kind of natural beauty that draws people to Palawan in the first place, yet its remoteness also means that it can go unnoticed by many travelers.

The island remains largely undeveloped, so visitors come mainly to enjoy its shores and surroundings. For now, much of the experience depends on the guides who bring people there and introduce them to the place.

Back in Sabang, there was always the option of spending the day at the resort instead.

Four Points by Sheraton Palawan does not offer the usual lineup of beach activities such as banana boat rides and kayaking. The emphasis is more on having room to unwind, whether that means taking a dip in the outdoor pool, spending time by the beach, or booking a treatment at the spa.

Guests who prefer something more active can also play pickleball at the resort’s outdoor court.

Food was another part of the stay. At Evolution, the resort’s all-day dining restaurant, the seafood was a highlight, with fresh catches served alongside dishes that incorporate locally sourced ingredients.

I also got to sample seven flavors from Palaweño Brewery, a local craft brewery whose beers offer a taste of Palawan beyond its usual food specialties.

My second day took an unexpected turn when I sprained my left foot. The resort’s nurse came to my room to check on my injury, and the staff made sure I was looked after.

Unable to go out as planned, I spent more time in my room, whose balcony overlooked the resort’s expansive outdoor pool. Instead of heading out to explore, I found myself spending the afternoon taking in the view from above.

It was an unexpected change of plans, especially after my trip to Isla Rita the day before. But staying in gave me a chance to enjoy the resort at a slower pace, with no itinerary to follow and nowhere else I needed to be.

In a way, it brought me back to what I had come to appreciate about Puerto Princesa: there is plenty to explore, but you don’t have to see it all in one go.

Sometimes, a trip can be just as enjoyable when you leave a little room for plans to change.

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