Prompted by our adventurous spirit, our tour group set out to explore a stretch of the ancient Silk Road less traveled by regular tourists. We were assisted by professional Chinese tour guides who spoke English and translated along the way, which made our tour more enjoyable, allowing us to appreciate not just the sights but also the richness of the local culture.
Contrary to common belief, the Great Silk Road was neither a single path nor an actual road. It was a network of caravan routes that, during the Middle Ages, linked Central Asia, the Mediterranean, and Europe. Along these trade routes flowed not only silk, spices, precious metals and minerals, fine handicrafts, and paintings, but also art, ideas, and stories. The Silk Road was a marketplace of goods and was a vibrant crossroads of cultures, where even theatrical performances and traditions were exchanged.
Fun, Food, and Friendship
Former Senator Nikki Coseteng, a Tsinoy who traces her roots to Xi’an, China, led our tour group. The 12-day journey of fun, food, and friendship was organized by the Filipino Chinese Friendship Association under its President, Danny Sze.
Our adventure began with a three-hour layover in Beijing before boarding a four-hour flight to Xinjiang, China’s largest province. Located in the northernmost part of the Silk Road, Xinjiang borders eight countries, namely, Russia, Afghanistan, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Mongolia, Pakistan, and Tajikistan. From there, we proceeded to Urumqi City, the provincial capital, which is known as the most remote city in the world, being 2,500 kilometers from the sea.
Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by their local officials and treated to a traditional dinner of roasted lamb, served whole and tender, and other dishes that had a delicious mix of Mongolian, Middle Eastern, and Chinese flavors. It was my first time to eat marinated horsemeat that sort of tasted like beef, but surprisingly was not as tough as I expected. Some members of the ethnic group, the Uyghurs who lived in the area, came in their native costumes and regaled us with local songs and dances before inviting everyone to join a lively community ‘train dance.’
The Desert Highway and Oasis
The following day, we drove through the Northern stretch of the Silk Road, the S21 Desert Highway, and the Gurbantunggut Desert. Beautiful rock formations rose from the desert horizon. Every now and then, we saw camel caravans moving through the dunes, reminding me of scenes from the movie ‘Lawrence of Arabia.’ To my surprise, however, this desert was not at all barren.
Thousands of trees had been planted along the desert’s Karamay Oilfields to create forest areas that help absorb carbon emissions. Chinese researchers have developed methods for afforestation without irrigation, as well as specialized tools for planting trees in sandy environments. These have transformed parts of the desert into green frontiers, proof of how innovation can reshape even the harshest of landscapes.
We visited the picturesque Wucai Beach, which is not really a beach but a scenic stretch along the banks of the Irtysh River in Burqin County. It is considered the most beautiful landscape in Xinjiang because of its colorful valleys, crisscrossed gullies, and earth ridges sculpted through the centuries by the relentless work of wind and erosion.
Breathtaking Views and Legends
We then trooped to the majestic Kanas Lake in the Altai Region, which is surrounded by breathtaking, snow-peaked mountains and lush pine trees. Kanas is a Mongolian word meaning a ‘beautiful and mysterious lake.’ I wondered why the color of the lake and its surrounding mountains seemed surreal and ethereal. Were my eyes playing tricks on me? It looked like the whole lake was filled with vivid turquoise paint, and the surrounding hills were a rich tapestry of texture and color. Apparently, the interplay of the seasonal melting of the glaciers and the reflection of the sunlight causes its waters to shift from deep blues and emerald greens to turquoise and grayish-green throughout the year. The early morning mist created a fairyland-like atmosphere, contributing to its otherworldly and mysterious quality.
Local legend adds a touch of mystery to the beautiful lake, with stories of a lake creature said to dwell in its depths, much like Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster. There have been many sightings of a ‘water dragon’ allegedly dragging horses and camels into the water. Curious, we boarded a yacht and cruised around the magnificent lake, hoping for a glimpse of the mythical lake monster. Fortunately, no monster revealed itself, leaving us free to simply enjoy the lake’s beauty and majestic surroundings.
Although there is no evidence of the monster, scientists suggest that the legend may have been due to sightings of a giant fish, or a ‘Hucho taimen,’ known to grow up to ten meters long. Still, the mystery endures, and the investigation continues, adding a layer of intrigue to this enchanting landscape.
Tuva Ethnic Group
We visited a Tuva Ethnic Group Settlement, where we were welcomed into one of their traditional log houses. The Tuva people trace their lineage to the soldiers who once followed Genghis Khan, the founder of the Mongol Empire.
We were given steaming cups of hot milk, which was freshly obtained from cattle, along with raisins, nuts, and milk candy, which are among their agricultural produce. Their community shared that the Tuva were once a nomadic people of hunters and forest dwellers from Russia and Mongolia, who eventually chose to settle in this region.
Today, the Tuvans sustain themselves not only through agriculture but also through tourism, proudly sharing their culture with visitors. The community has a small school staffed by 20 teachers who teach around 80 elementary and high school students. Older youth are encouraged by the community to proceed to study in the universities.
We were captivated by the Tuva people’s traditional throat-singing, an extraordinary vocal technique that produces two different pitches simultaneously: a high, whistle-like tone layered over a deep rumble. I couldn’t help but think to myself, ‘talbog si Vernie Varga!’ remembering the famous Filipina singer known for her vocal acrobatics. A male and a female Tuvan, dressed in their traditional costumes, treated us to folk dances that offered a glimpse into their rich artistic and cultural heritage.
We were fortunate to visit the Tuva Ethnic Settlement during autumn when the birch forest blazed in brilliant shades of yellow and orange. At the Hemu Ethnic Settlement, about three hours away, many Tuva houses had been converted into restaurants. We feasted on roasted skewered lamb marinated in various spices, and sampled fresh yogurt made from camel, sheep, or cow’s milk and other interesting delicacies.
The women in our group had a delightful time trying out their traditional Tuva attire made of colorful indigenous fabrics. We walked around the settlement as if transported back to olden times.
From Demon City to Snow Mountains
On our fifth day, we drove to a place called Demon City, located in the Wuerhe mining site near Karamay. The area is famous for its dramatic wind-carved rock formations that resemble ancient castles and ravines. It is also known as Ghost City because of the eerie howls and shrieks created by strong winds as they pass through the rock formations.
Once an oil field, Demon City has been transformed into a tourist site where visitors can enjoy camel rides, ATVs, and other sports activities. A tram tour gives you a panoramic view of majestic sphinxes, mesmerizing peacocks, and massive rock shapes that resemble a ‘sinking Titanic’.
It is said that dinosaurs once roamed this place a thousand years ago, which explains why a section there was aptly named Jurassic Valley, complete with huge dinosaur replicas. The movie ‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’ was filmed here. The haunting beauty of the site is fantastic for snapshots, but I was relieved that we did not stay overnight, because of the howls and shrieks which would have surely sent chills down our spines.
Day six brought us to Sayram Lake in the Tianshan Mountains, near the Kazakhstan border. As we arrived, the temperature had dropped to 1°C. Sayram Lake, the largest and highest lake in Xinjiang at 6,790 feet above sea level, is fed mainly by glacial meltwater. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks and inhabited by Kazakh communities, the lake is often called ‘the last tear of the Atlantic.’ This poetic name comes from the belief that Sayram is the final place in China reached by the warm, moist winds that originate from the distant Atlantic Ocean.
Adding to its mystique is a local legend: it is said that a pair of lovers, unable to be together, wept so bitterly that their tears formed the lake before they took their own lives. Today, Sayram Lake has become a favorite honeymoon and holiday destination for young couples, drawn by both its romantic tale and its natural splendor.
Locals told us that during summer, water temperature can soar to a boiling 100°C, making one wonder if the salmon in the lake might end up as ‘nilagang salmon’ (boiled salmon) in the heat.
Along the Silk Road, even the pit stops along the highway turned into flavorful encounters with the region’s vibrant food culture, because of stalls selling Xinjiang’s fruits, delicacies, and souvenirs.