I have been to Bondo and the Jaramogi homestead a few times. But this time was different. On the evening of October 18, a 70-person delegation set off on a bus on a long journey, from Gulu in northern Uganda to Nyanza, southwestern Kenya, following the eastern route.
Organised by Rocco Paco, the delegation made the journey with the spirit of representing all Ugandans of goodwill, not only the central Lwo community of northern Uganda, at Raila Amolo Odinga’s funeral in Bondo.
The delegation, which included more than 60 Bwola dancers from Agago, was led by Justice Ralph Ochan and myself. If we had more time, I feel sure the streets of Bondo would have been filled with many mourners from Uganda.
At this hour of great loss and pain, we wanted to join the Kenyan people, Africa and the global Lwo community, in mourning our singular common hero – our Thuon, Oluma, Oteka, Jowi – Raila. And we wanted to celebrate, together, his life and monumental contribution to Kenya and Africa.
To celebrate his steely resolve, his dogged tenacity and his sacrifice. To celebrate his relentless and protracted struggle for ‘second liberation’, for genuine democratic practice, for national unity, for equity, and for real devolution of governance.
After a night-long trip, we arrived in Kenya early morning of Sunday, October 19. We were warmly welcomed in Bondo by the Governor of Siaya, Mr James Orengo, and the Governor of Kisumu, Prof Peter Anyang’ Nyong’o.
That evening, a few of us visited the Odinga residence at Opoda farm to pay our respects and condole with Mama Ida Odinga. The big-awaited moment came on Monday morning, October 20, when the delegation was received at Kang’o Ka Jaramogi (Jaramogi family homestead).
This is the resting place of both Jaramogi and Raila. We headed straight to Jaramogi’s mausoleum to pay our respects first to the great African icon. Matthew, the custodian at the mausoleum, had kindly agreed to give the delegation an exclusive tour of the museum section of the mausoleum.
That section contains a well-curated chronicle and record of the momentous life and times of Jaramogi. This was a treat.
Mama Ida, after days of heavy bereavement toll (chola) still made a special effort to come over to the compound to welcome us. Senator Oburu Oginga, Raila’s elder brother and head of the Jaramogi family, also came over to receive us at the Jaramogi homestead and Raila’s graveside.
On hand too, to welcome us at the compound, with such grace and palpable warmth were Raila’s stepmothers (Mama Susan and Mama Betty) and Raila’s sisters (Pauline and Ruth). Oh, bless them!
The Bwola dancers, decked in their traditional Lwo regalia and signature white ostrich plumes, were now able to do what had brought them all the way from Agago.
In Lwo tradition, Bwola dance was ‘invented’ specifically for heroes (Tuon, Oteka, Jowi) and kings (Rwot), to extol and celebrate their virtues, their courage and sacrifice, their vision and exemplary leadership.
Bwola dance is custom-made for a moment such as this, the Bondo moment. In the presence of Senator Oburu, family members and other dignitaries, the Bwola dancers now marched and formed a ceremonial royal circle around Raila’s grave. There, they performed the tribute, with such presence, magnificence and evident love. There at Raila’s grave, there at Jaramogi’s mausoleum. Both resting in the same graveyard. With moving songs of tribute, praise and farewell. Invoking our unity, petitioning for the blessings of our common ancestors. In January 1994, we had desperately wanted to accord the great Jaramogi this singular honour; alas, it was not to be. In a mystical way, the Bwola dancers have today accomplished this mission – to our two iconic heroes – at the same time, in the same graveyard.
Oh, mac onywalo mac! (The searing fire begot searing fire) From the graveside and mausoleum, the dancers relocated to the main compound, where they performed more songs. All through, the mood at the compound was thick with poignancy, with re-connectedness, with deep meanings! What a moving spiritual moment! What a glorious sight! The Lwo from Acoliland executing this magnificent Lwo tribute and farewell to their beloved son – Wuod Tuon, Oteka wa, Jowi – their Raila. I noticed that some of those in attendance were furtively fighting back tears. When the ceremonies were done, Senator Oburu bid us farewell and handed us over to Omin, John Andwuo Mwai, who had served for many years as Raila’s personal assistant.
Omin-wa, Mwai, insisted that the delegation repair to his nearby home and hotel (Sarah’s House), where he provided us copious luncheon and wonderful hospitality. Such cuiny wat! (Spirit of love and oneness) Our pilgrimage completed, we now embarked on our return journey to Uganda, singing and celebrating all the way. And so, what is Rocco Paco? This is a revival movement for rebuilding, restoring and transforming Lwo Acoli society, which experienced radical collapse during over two decades of war and internment in camps. This non-partisan, non-political project is being led by Chief Justice Alfonse Owiny-Dollo and myself.