Cystic acne can be painful, stubborn and difficult to manage. Unlike ordinary pimples that sit close to the surface of the skin, cysts and nodules develop deeper in the skin and can leave permanent scars when they heal.
This is why simply applying more skincare products is not necessarily the answer. Using several strong acids at once can irritate the skin and make an already inflamed face worse.
A better approach is to keep the routine simple and use acne-fighting ingredients in the right order.
Salicylic acid is one of the ingredients used in acne treatment because it helps unclog pores and exfoliate the skin. However, people with true cystic or nodular acne may need treatment from a dermatologist rather than relying on an over-the-counter acid alone.
In this article, Tribune Online explains how to build a simple acid-based routine for acne-prone skin and the mistakes to avoid.
Start with a gentle cleanser
Before applying any acid, wash your face with a gentle cleanser. The aim is to remove excess oil, sweat and dirt without leaving the skin dry or irritated. Avoid using a harsh cleanser or scrubbing the face aggressively.
If your skin is already irritated, adding strong exfoliating products can make the problem worse.Pat your face dry with a clean towel instead of rubbing it.
Apply the salicylic acid
After cleansing, apply your salicylic acid product according to its instructions. Salicylic acid product is commonly available as an acne treatment. Salicylic acid helps unclog pores and exfoliate the skin, making it useful for blackheads, whiteheads and some pimples.
If you are using a leave-on liquid exfoliant, apply a thin, even layer rather than repeatedly applying it to the same spots. Do not assume that using more will make acne disappear faster. Too much can cause dryness, stinging and irritation.
Do not pile several acids on your face
This is one of the most important parts of the routine. Do not combine salicylic acid with several other exfoliating acids simply because you want faster results.Using multiple strong exfoliants can irritate the skin and weaken the skin barrier.
A simple routine is easier to tolerate and makes it easier to identify which product is helping or causing irritation. The aim is not to make the skin peel. The aim is to control acne without damaging the skin.
Follow with non-comedogenic moisturiser
After the salicylic acid has been applied as directed, use a moisturiser suitable for acne-prone skin. Look for a product labelled non-comedogenic , meaning it is designed not to clog pores.
Moisturising is still important when treating acne because many acne products can cause dryness or irritation. Keeping the skin comfortable can also make it easier to continue the treatment consistently. A lightweight gel or lotion may be more comfortable for people with oily skin, but the best choice depends on the individual skin type.
Give your skin time to adjust
Do not expect cystic acne to disappear overnight. Acne treatment usually takes time. It can take at least six to eight weeks before some people begin to see fewer breakouts, while other treatments may take several months to produce noticeable improvement.
Starting slowly can also help your skin adjust to an exfoliating product. If the product causes significant burning, swelling, severe redness or persistent irritation, stop using it and seek professional advice.
Avoid physical scrubs
If you are using salicylic acid, there is no need to add a rough facial scrub to the routine.
Products containing abrasive particles can irritate acne-prone skin, particularly when they are used aggressively. Scrubbing a pimple does not remove the inflammation underneath it. It can instead make the skin more irritated.
Dermatologists specifically advise against scrubbing acne because it can worsen breakouts. This includes harsh homemade scrubs made from ingredients such as crushed nuts or other rough particles.
Never squeeze a cyst
Acid treatment should not be combined with squeezing or picking. A cyst or nodule develops deep beneath the skin, so squeezing it is unlikely to solve the problem. It can increase the risk of infection, discolouration and scarring.
If a painful cyst appears, leave it alone rather than repeatedly touching it.
For a deep, painful spot, a clean warm, damp cloth can be applied for 10 to 15 minutes. However, persistent or multiple cysts require proper acne treatment rather than repeated home treatment.
Protect your skin during the day
Acne treatment should also include protection from the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher that is labelled non-comedogenic if you are prone to blocked pores.Some acne treatments can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.
Sun protection is also important because inflammation from acne can leave dark marks after a spot heals, particularly in darker skin tones. Apply sunscreen as the final step of your morning skincare routine.
Do not keep adding products when results are slow
One of the biggest mistakes people make is changing their routine every few days. When acne does not improve immediately, they may add another acid, another exfoliant or another acne treatment. This can leave the skin irritated without addressing the underlying acne.
Give an appropriate treatment enough time to work. If your acne is not improving after several weeks, a healthcare professional can help determine whether another treatment is needed.
Know when salicylic acid is not enough
This is particularly important for cystic acne. If you have large, painful pimples deep beneath the skin, repeated cysts or acne that is leaving scars, do not rely on an acid-layering routine alone.
People with acne nodules and cysts need a dermatologist’s help because these forms of acne penetrate deeply and can cause permanent scarring.
Treatment for moderate-to-severe acne may involve prescription medicines such as topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide combinations, oral antibiotics or hormonal treatment, depending on the individual. Severe cases may require stronger specialist treatment.