Unlike industries where professionals often arrive through broadly similar training, Juliana Kagwa has found tourism populated by people from remarkably different worlds. It is common to find doctors running a lodge or a teacher doubling as a tour operator. Leading them means listening, motivating and building relationships with the private sector, while sometimes enforcing standards through licensing and grading.
‘It has been a rollercoaster ride, but a very rewarding one,’ she tells Lunch with the DM, with a chuckle.
Kagwa came to Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) with more than two decades of corporate experience, much of it in marketing, but tourism has demanded a different education. Her days now intersect with government ministries, foreign missions, tourism associations, conservation agencies, investors and businesses whose fortunes can shift with events far beyond Uganda’s borders.
Her first year has included the 10th edition of the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE), deeper engagement with Uganda’s foreign missions and international partners, and another period in which health-related headlines tested confidence in the destination. Yet some of her biggest lessons have come from discovering the industry itself.
Domestic tourism
One surprise has been its resilience. Kagwa entered a sector that had already endured the devastation of Covid-19 and rebuilt itself. Domestic tourism gained greater significance; the government introduced interventions to support struggling businesses, while operators fought to keep hotels and lodges running and people employed.
More recently, she has watched businesses contend with cancellations running into hundreds of thousands of dollars. She observes: ‘There are people who have cancellations to the tune of $300,000 (Shs1.1b). There are not many businesses in Uganda that can take that kind of hit and continue to come to work the next day, continue to hope and be optimistic that we will regain the business.’
She notes that the persistence speaks to the character of the people behind the industry. But perhaps the more consequential discovery has been just how much Uganda has to sell. Before taking the job, Kagwa admits, she viewed tourism much as many outsiders do. ‘I thought tourism is how many lions you have, how many elephants you can showcase at a time.’
There were the mountain gorillas too. Wildlife and landscape largely defined the product in her mind. A year inside the industry has broadened her outlook. She has encountered the cultural diversity that unfolds across Uganda through languages, food, dress, music and traditions.
She has met entrepreneurs experimenting with city sightseeing buses, others developing experiences around the Uganda Martyrs trail and still others looking towards Lake Victoria and its islands for new products.
Then there are the guides whose work demands knowledge of everything from history and culture to birds, plants and wildlife.
‘Having come in now, I see the opportunity. Honestly, it abounds,’ she says, adding, ‘We have too much to offer.’
Uganda has an abundance of tourism assets, yet many remain insufficiently developed, packaged and told.
‘We have not even scratched the surface,’ she notes, arguing that, for decades, African tourism has been heavily associated with wildlife and safari but underscores that Uganda cannot afford to remain confined to that identity. ‘We’ve been kind of put in a wildlife box.’
Step out of wildlife box
The answer, she argues, is not to diminish wildlife but to build richer experiences around it. A traveller might come for the mountain gorillas, but stay longer because of encounters with the communities, traditions and stories around them.
Travellers, she observes, increasingly seek immersion rather than simply things to see, which presents an opportunity for Uganda’s culture and heritage to become stronger parts of the tourism product.
The UTB chief executive looks at destinations that have successfully built tourism around preserved history and wonders what Uganda could do differently with its own heritage. Rather than visitors merely walking through a historical site and listening to an explanation, she imagines experiences in which history is brought to life through drama.
At Kasubi Tombs, for example, actors could interpret historical figures, taking visitors imaginatively into another period. The challenge is turning them into experiences people will travel for. The same challenge sits on the Ugandan dining table.
‘We’re a food basin actually, Edgar,’ Kagwa observes, adding that Uganda’s food is as diverse as its natural environment, yet culinary tourism has barely begun to develop as a deliberate visitor experience.
Coffee presents another opportunity. Uganda is home to Robusta coffee, but its story has yet to be sufficiently developed as a tourism product.
‘There is a lot of opportunity, and we haven’t even started. We haven’t packaged it well,’ she says.
The marketer in her turns to Rolex, the popular street food that has become recognisably Ugandan. How is it positioned, packaged and what value is attached to it? Beyond Rolex are matooke, groundnut sauce and gonja-foods Ugandans encounter so routinely that their tourism value can easily be overlooked. Kagwa speaks affectionately about gonja, admitting to eating it in different forms and regularly stopping for it in Namawojjolo and Lukaya.
‘I think the vendors there know my number plate,’ she jokes.
Beneath the humour is a serious proposition that everyday Ugandan food carries stories of people, place and identity. Developing products is one part of the equation. Someone must interpret them, and to this, she describes tour guides as the gateway to the Ugandan experience.
She explains: ‘You can book all the tourists you want. You will make all the itineraries you feel like. You can be as creative as you want, but if you don’t have somebody to tell the story, to guide the tourists, add that human element, then we’re no good or no better than the next destination.’
Leadership lessons
Kagwa’s first year has given her a deeper appreciation of what guides carry: history, culture, knowledge of birds, plants, wildlife and increasingly specialised interests such as reptiles and insects.
She says UTB sees a role in training and equipping them, including exposure to technology and artificial intelligence. With visitors coming from increasingly diverse markets, language itself becomes part of the challenge.
The destination, in other words, is only as compelling as the people capable of interpreting it. And as UTB’s CEO has learnt about the people she leads and serves. Kagwa says the year has also changed her. ‘Leadership,’ she observes, ‘evolves.’
The leader she was during her private-sector career cannot simply be transplanted into public service. The UTB role has taught her patience, listening and the value of trusting others to execute. It has also required becoming comfortable with not knowing.
‘Leaders actually are the biggest students of any organisation, because you have to be learning and listening almost 100 percent of the time,’ she says. ‘You have to know that you don’t know. And that’s one of the hardest lessons to learn in life.’
Kagwa has drawn on mentors including Baker Magunda and Marion Muyobo. Within tourism, she credits her predecessor, Dr Lilly Ajarova, with helping her appreciate that selling Uganda also requires protecting and conserving the product. She has also found teachers among peers and colleagues.
‘Sometimes it’s your peers that mentor you. Sometimes you’re mentored by even people that report to you,’ she says.
All that learning feeds into an ambition that Kagwa says keeps her awake. She aspires to grow tourism into a sector contributing 10 percent of Uganda’s gross domestic product by 2040. Getting there will require more than advertising Uganda. It means broadening what the country sells, improving skills and giving visitors more reasons to stay, spend and return.
The seasoned marketer increasingly sees tourism as an economy of possibility. A person can make a living telling stories. Similarly, a family can develop an agro-tourism experience and a community can draw value from its heritage. Tourism, in her telling, offers not only income but hope. Yet for someone carrying such ambitions, Kagwa has also learnt to put the job into perspective.
‘The show will go on, with or without you,’ she notes.
After about 25 years of work, she has learnt that sometimes work takes precedence and family waits. At other times, the phone goes off, and the laptop is put away. Her current job may amount to serving the nation, but even that does not make its occupant indispensable.
‘If I wasn’t here, Edgar, believe me, they’re going to find someone else in a split second,’ she says. ‘You have to be conscious of that, remain humble, because you’re replaceable.’
Perhaps that explains why her place of peace is her home and water. She lives near Lake Victoria and describes proximity to water as restorative. During POATE 2026, with thousands of visitors passing through the expo, 120 hosted buyers and more than 350 exhibitors to attend to, that relationship became particularly useful.
There were moments when the pressure threatened to overwhelm her. Then she would look towards Lake Victoria. ‘I just look over Lake Victoria and say, but no, we are sitting in the best location on earth.’
For the woman charged with convincing others to explore Uganda, sometimes it takes a glance across the water to remind herself why.