The year was 1882. Our national hero Jose Rizal landed in Naples, Italy. It was his first time in Europe. I could imagine the wide-eyed look on his face and the sense of wonder he might have felt upon setting foot on European soil. He didn’t stay long in Naples, but it left an impression on him; the hustle and bustle of local life and the scenic views of the coastal city.
We can’t all be national heroes (maybe just the main character of our own stories), but we can still visit Naples and maybe experience the same sense of wide-eyed wonder as Jose Rizal.
Lively (or Chaotic?) Naples
I left Naples’ train station with a sense of excitement and wonder knowing that I’ll be visiting a new city. I’ve heard from other travelers how chaotic or in other peoples’ words ‘lived in’ the city was. I saw clothes hanging from the balcony or windows of someone’s apartment. Some buildings looked old and worn out, not really out of place when around centuries old churches or structures. There was also random vandalism on walls (on a side note: I think whoever made those felt like some master painter from the age of enlightenment or the Renaissance period, I’m projecting of course).
I wandered along the narrow streets and weaved in and out of alleys. People on bicycles and scooters whizzed by from the front and back without caring for the pedestrians they might run into. I might add that Italians are a jolly bunch. Boisterous conversations often took place (I had no idea what they were talking about) and I would hear people shouting at each other from their windows (I wasn’t entirely sure if they were arguing or not).
I’m not a big football fan, but I would casually look at the box score if the World Cup was on. However, the ubiquitous prevalence of Diego Maradona on walls and souvenirs was a pleasant surprise (sidebar: I didn’t know who he was until I visited Naples). I later found out he became the unofficial patron saint of the city (I saw a mural of him dressed like a priest), after bringing the city multiple championships. They embraced his working-class background and considered him as one of their own.
I sat down and ate a Neapolitan pizza at a restaurant I stumbled upon. I’ve met a few travelers that said they saw themselves living in Metro Manila and others saying the exact opposite. I’ve felt the same contradictory feelings many times over. I thought about how similar Naples was to Metro Manila with its mix of noise and chaos. Maybe I’m just projecting something I’m familiar with to feel a semblance of home or maybe we’re carrying a bit of home wherever we go.
Feeling Royal in Caserta
I looked for a day trip that’s close to Naples and discovered that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Royal Palace of Caserta was approximately just under an hour away. I find castles fascinating to be honest. Come to think of it, the extremely rich haven’t changed much, some still like flaunting their wealth.
Architect Luigi Vanvitelli planned the castle in the 18th century. He followed the vision of Charles of Bourbon who wanted to have a castle that rivaled those found in Madrid and Versailles. The walk up to the palace did remind me of the one I visited in Versailles in France. The grand staircase with its statues and details elicits a sense of awe from visitors (myself included). The staircase doesn’t just connect floors, it’s meant for a dramatic/theatrical ascent.
Since I like watching movies, I discovered a few fun facts about the palace. Some movies that used this complex as a filming location include Star Wars Episodes I and 2, Mission Impossible III, The Two Popes, and Conclave just to name a few.
With more than a thousand rooms and a massive floor area, it’s improbable to see everything in one day. Some of the highlights of a visit include the Throne Room, Palatine Chapel, Hall of Astrea, and Rooms of the Four Seasons. One of the reasons people visit is the huge garden and park that surround the palace complex. Visitors can simply wander around the property after exploring the palace. The curated palace contrasts Naples’ beautiful chaos.
Naples and Caserta are possible destinations you can add during your first (or second or third or so on and so forth) visit. The chaos of Naples adds to its charm while the Caserta Royal Palace provides a contrast and break from the frenzy of the city. It’s convenient to get to either place by train from Rome. I recommend booking train tickets in advance to not only save money but to also get the schedule you want.