It has been four years and three months since Charlotte Mbabazi began her sisterlocks’ journey. Her care regimen consists of a gentle wash every seven to 10 days, depending on the dust situation in Kampala. After washing, she pats the locs dry or wraps them in a towel until all the excess water is absorbed.
Locs, in their various forms, have become a beloved hairstyle for many women, and sisterlocks are the latest trend. Praised for their light yet sassy look, they are making waves. However, how can one ensure these stylish locs do not turn into a nightmare?
Cleaning the scalp
Dr Abraham Mukalazi, a dermatologist at Mildmay Hospital, emphasises the importance of keeping the scalp clean, especially since the hair is worn long-term.
‘You can easily get a build-up of dandruff or scaling,’ he explains. ‘That requires one to clean the hair at least every one to two weeks, depending on their predisposition to dandruff. One will need to use a medicated shampoo, say, an antifungal such as ketoconazole or selenium sulfide. It reduces the risk of dandruff and controls the development of Malassezia aspergillus, a fungus that naturally lives on the skin.’
Sandra Mondo, who has been on her sisterlocks journey for two years, shares that she now feels more confident with her hair and washes it weekly.
‘Previously, I washed my hair twice a month, but that changed when a trichologist diagnosed me with seborrheic dermatitis. Today, I wash it with a medicated shampoo and follow up with a moisturising shampoo.
I also use cool water because I learned that hot or warm water is not great for the scalp,’ she says.
Mondo avoids applying oil directly to her scalp, explaining, ‘It clogs the pores and creates an environment that feeds yeast. I used to believe I had to oil a dry scalp, but after the diagnosis, I learnt that this just makes the condition worse.’
Mbabazi considers herself lucky to have never experienced dandruff. She believes hydration plays a key role: ‘If you are not internally hydrated, your skin will become dry and flaky. So, I drink lots of water and juice, and eat lots of fruit to keep my skin and scalp supple. Moringa oil from Qwezi also hydrates the skin and scalp, keeping dandruff at bay.’
Dr Mukalazi also notes that people who sweat a lot or are physically active should wash their hair more frequently to prevent odour.
‘And once you wash your hair, make sure to dry it well to avoid any unpleasant smells.’
Mbabazi says she air-dries her hair when the weather is hot, but uses a hairdryer during the rainy season.
Moisturising
Dr Mukalazi cautions against the use of heavy moisturisers.
‘Jelly-like moisturisers are heavy and create build-up,’ he warns. ‘Use light oils, and moisturising should not be too frequent, maybe once or twice a week, preferably right after washing. Some of the light oils include pure olive oil, while heavy ones such as shea butter should be avoided.’
Mondo’s routine includes spraying her hair with a leave-in conditioner and sealing it with a small amount of almond oil. She also creates herbal teas such as rosemary and lavender, which she sprays onto her hair two to three times a week.
‘Due to the size of the locks, all products have to be light to avoid build-up in the strands,’ she explains.
Similarly, Mbabazi applies a little Moringa oil by Qwezi to her locks and sometimes to her scalp while her hair is still damp to seal in moisture. ‘I use that oil because it’s a very lightweight oil and leaves no smell,’ she says.
Still, many struggle to keep their locks moist, and Louis Bismark Ovon, a loctician at Locs and More advises using moisturisers suitable for locs. ‘There are many on the market, but it is best to test the product. Smear it on your skin-if your skin absorbs it without leaving a white mark, you have got a good one,’ he says.
He adds: ‘You can make homemade moisturisers such as a mixture of olive oil and water or rose water and any other light oil, which you can spray using a spritz bottle.’
Mbabazi finds plain water sufficient for hydration. She says: ‘When it rains, I don’t mind walking without an umbrella because a little rain is good for my locs.’
Retightening
Mondo self-retightens her locks every five to six weeks, a process that takes her about eight hours over a weekend or four evenings if she spreads it out. Mbabazi, who is also a loctician, follows the same timeline and says it comes easily to her.
Ovon explains that the retightening schedule depends on individual hair growth, but generally, ‘Four to six weeks is the standard. Four weeks is ideal during the first three months of installation, after which you can adjust. Four weeks is also ideal for comb-twisted dreadlocks, while six to eight weeks works better for locked dreadlocks.’
However, some try to push their repair sessions to eight weeks, which Ovon discourages: ‘The more new growth you have, the weaker your hair gets, making it prone to breakage. On the other hand, some people want very neat hair and retighten too frequently, which tugs at the scalp and can cause inflammation. Over-tightening and tight styling can lead to traction alopecia.’
Common problems with locs and solutions
Ovon observes that many people with locs struggle with managing the time needed for repairs.
‘Sometimes it takes long to get through the whole process. Luckily, I am one of the few loctician who do not take more than an hour on repair.’
Retwisting can be painful for some, especially when using a crochet needle.
‘Some people also dislike heat, yet when doing comb twisting or twisting with wax, you need to go under a dryer,’ he says.
As one ages, locs can start thinning. They may also lead to balding or alopecia due to constant pulling.
‘It’s essential to let the hair breathe, avoid holding it back in tight buns.’
Longer locs also get heavier, which can negatively affect posture.
‘Some people start bending to one side unconsciously. You may want to reduce your hair length,’ Ovon advises.
Finding a skilled loctician is another challenge, as many claim to know the craft while not.
‘Look for someone who understands your hair and can help you find the right products,’ he says.
He underscores the importance of discovering a regimen that works for your specific hair type.
‘There’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Moisturise your hair to prevent dryness, which can lead to breakage.’
Dr Abraham Mukalazi, a dermatologist at Mildmay Hospital, affirms: ‘It helps reduce friction while you sleep, which minimises breakage. It also aids in moisture retention.’
He further advises an annual visit to a dermatologist for a scalp and hair examination.
Diet also plays a role. ‘Fruits rich in zinc such as pumpkin seeds and watermelon, are important,’ Dr Mukalazi notes.